Skip to main content

DIY Roomba Virtual Wall

Recently, my Roomba virtual wall broke. Not sure what happened. I did a battery change, and the darn thing will not power up after the new batteries were inserted.

Anyway, while looking online for a new virtual wall to buy, I came across info on people making their own virtual walls. Here is a links dump:

  1. https://petezah.com/category/development/roomba/
  2. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3104027
  3. http://blog.batmule.dk/posts/2019/Roomba_Virtual_Wall_part1/
  4. http://www.robotreviews.com/chat/viewtopic.php?p=65658&mobile=on
  5. https://misc.ws/2014/02/27/diy-virtual-wall-for-roomba/
  6. https://misc.ws/2014/08/09/diy-virtual-wall-for-roomba-part-two/
  7. http://www.enide.net/webcms/index.php?page=virtual-wall-for-roomba
  8. http://eka.tomeczko.pl/index.php/diy-roomba-virtual-wall
  9. http://gregthielen.me/blogstuff/2017/06/27/roomba-virtual-wall/
  10. https://github.com/MKme/Roomba
  11. http://forkthings.com/2016/11/25/diy-an-irobot-roomba-virtual-wall/
Turns out it is extremely easy to produce the IR signal emitted by the virtual wall. It's basically 0.5ms mark, 7.5ms space, 3 times, followed by 132ms of rest (based on the info given here), over a 38KHz modulation frequency.


I decided to test the idea using a simple ATtiny85-based circuit on the breadboard:

 
The test program is as follows:

#include <Arduino.h>
#include <tiny_IRremote.h>

IRsend irsend;

void setup() {
  irsend.enableIROut(38);
}

void loop() {
  for (int i=0; i<3; i++) {
      irsend.mark(500);
      irsend.space(7500);
    }
    delay(132);
}

My initial attempt using the IRRemote library found in Arduino's Library Manager didn't work, though ATtiny85 is supposed to be supported.

Being the lazy bum that I am, instead of trying to debug the library, I simply googled around and found another IR remote library called tiny_IRremote. I downloaded the library and changed the include file, and to my amazement, the test circuit worked on first try!

The IR LED that I was using on the breadboard was the one salvaged from the broken virtual wall. I also tested another IR LED that I removed from an old TV remote, as well as a IR LED that I found in the original Arduino kit purchased many years back. They all worked without a problem (at least with the two 500-series Roomba in my possession).

Now that the proof-of-concept works, I am going to build a replacement Roomba virtual wall with the ATtiny85.

Comments

  1. Missing the declaration of irsend in this little example

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Find in tiny_IRremote: https://gist.github.com/SeeJayDee/caa9b5cc29246df44e45b8e7d1b1cdc5

      Delete
    2. Thanks for your answer. I don't think you got my point; I'm aware that I've to use the lib from this Gist; but I just pointed out that in this POF code the declaration of irsend object is missing:

      #include
      IRsend irsend; // This was missing

      (#include is missing too by the way)

      Thanks for this project !

      Delete
    3. okaayyy ... for some reasons some parts are deleted on comments ... So again, without angle brackets 🤥

      #include tiny_IRremote.h // imagine angle brackets ...
      IRsend irsend; // <-- This was missing

      (#include Arduino.h is missing too by the way; again imagine angle brackets)

      Delete
    4. Ah, I see! I have fixed up the code. Thanks for pointing out the omissions!

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Update: Line adapter for Ozito Blade Trimmer

Update (Dec 2021): If you access to a 3D printer, I would now recommend this solution , which makes it super easy to replace the trimmer line. I have been using it for a few months now with zero issue.

Cooling mod for the X96 Air

I realized after my Ugoos box died that overheating is a big problem with cheap Android TV boxes. A teardown of the Ugoos box shows that it does not have any heatsink or fan at all!  The X96 Air does have a heatsink, but the heatsink is located at the bottom of the casing with no ventilation. In this default configuration, with the ambient room temperature at 25c and playing a 1080p video, I was seeing the CPU temperature at 67c. I drilled a couple of holes at the bottom of the casing. The CPU temperature fell to 59c with the box raised about 2cm with plastic blocks. I retrieved an old 5V laptop fan: Then cut and strip away a spare USB cable: Solder the red and black wires on the fan and the cable: Secure the fan to the bottom of the casing with double-sided tape, then plug the fan into the box's USB connector. Here's a view of the box with some 3D-printed risers installed at the bottom to give the mounted fan sufficient clearance: The CPU now runs at 43c, a huge drop from the ...

Installing and customizing CoreELEC in X96 Air

I previously installed CoreELEC on another TV Box ( Ugoos X3 Pro ), which unfortunately died after only 9 months during the summer (due to the unit overheating, which I learned is a common problem for cheap Android TV boxes). So this time I purchased a X96 Air  (4GB/32Gb) and had to do the whole thing again. So this is a note-to-self in case I ever have to install CoreELEC again on some other device. Installation of CoreELEC is simple enough by following this guide . Basically, it involves downloading and writing the firmware to a microSD card using usbimager . Then insert the microSD card, reset the unit and hold the reset until the logo appears. The unit will then proceed to boot into CoreELEC. First thing is to connect to WiFi, then enable SSH. This allows me to login via ssh and execute: ceemmc -x from the terminal. This writes CoreELEC to the built-in eMMC storage, after which I am able to remove the microSD card and reboot the unit into CoreELEC via the built-in sto...