Skip to main content

DIY Roomba Virtual Wall, Part 2

Following on the success of the test circuit, I added a status LED and a pushbutton to the breadboard. 

A summary of the connections:

  • IR LED connected to pin 3 (PB4) of the ATtiny85 (100ohm current- limiting resistor). Pin 3 is where the tiny_IRremote library sends its output to by default.
  • Normal LED connected to pin 2 (PB3, 220ohm current-limiting resistor). We will use this LED as a status indicator to 1) signal power-on 2) signal battery low
  • Pushbutton connected to pin 6 (PB1, 10Kohm pull-up resistor). We will use this as a soft switch to turn the virtual wall on/off.

The Arduino source code is available here.

Note: I configured ATtiny85 to run at 1MHz for additional power saving. Correspondingly, in tiny_IRremoteInt.h, I had to change #define SYSCLOCK from 8000000 to 1000000.

Some highlights of the code:

  • Pin change interrupt is used to monitor when the pushbutton is pressed to turn on the unit.
  • In normal operation, status LED flashes every second.
  • Watchdog timer interrupt is triggered every 64s to measure the battery level. If battery level drops to below 2.8V, status LED flashes 0.1s every 4 seconds to signal that battery needs to be changed.
  • The circuit automatically turns off after 80 minutes.

I powered the circuit using 3xAA NiMH rechargeable batteries. Since the operating voltage of the ATtiny85 is 2.7V - 5.5V, 2xAA alkaline batteries will also work. But with 3xAA, both rechargeables and alkalines can be used, so I went with that.

Using the current meter to measure,  when the circuit is off, the current consumption is around 0.2mA. When the circuit is on and emitting signal, the current consumption is around 5.5mA.

At 2000mAH per AA NiMH battery, this works out to 363 hours of continous operation. If the unit is run for 2 x 80 minutes every day, the battery would still last for at least 3 months, which is good enough for me. Plus I much prefer to work with AA rechargeables than C-size batteries which the original virtual wall requires.

I soldered the components down onto a prototype board, and here's what I came up with:

The prototype board is 5cm x 7cm cut in half, so the dimension is 5cm x 3.5cm.

The IR LED is the one jutting out horizontally in front. The white 2-pin JST female connector is for interfacing with the battery holder.

A 0.1uF ceramic capacitor is added between the VCC and GND pins of the ATtiny85 for decoupling purpose.

In the next step, I will 3D print a suitable enclosure for the virtual wall.

Part 1 - Part 3 - Part 4

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Cooling mod for the X96 Air #2

Previously, I added a USB cooling fan to the X96 Air TV box . The problem with this mod is that the fan is always running, and it runs at full speed. Ideally, the fan should kick in only when the CPU temperature is above a certain threshold. It would be even better if there is a way to control the fan speed. Dan McDonald left me a comment pointing to his project on Github . He basically connected the fan to a USB relay that can be controlled by Python script. His project inspired me to make a similar mod that would make use of the spare D1 Mini boards I have lying around. The plan is to hook up the fan to a MOSFET (2N7000) and control it via PWM. Here's the very simple circuit: The code simply reads a single character from the serial port (0 - 9). 0 will turn the fan off, while 1 - 9 will generate a proportional PWM to drive the fan, with 1 being the lowest and 9 being the highest. Here's the Arduino code: #include <Arduino.h> void setup () { Serial . begin ( 9600 ...

Installing and customizing CoreELEC in X96 Air

I previously installed CoreELEC on another TV Box ( Ugoos X3 Pro ), which unfortunately died after only 9 months during the summer (due to the unit overheating, which I learned is a common problem for cheap Android TV boxes). So this time I purchased a X96 Air  (4GB/32Gb) and had to do the whole thing again. So this is a note-to-self in case I ever have to install CoreELEC again on some other device. Installation of CoreELEC is simple enough by following this guide . Basically, it involves downloading and writing the firmware to a microSD card using usbimager . Then insert the microSD card, reset the unit and hold the reset until the logo appears. The unit will then proceed to boot into CoreELEC. First thing is to connect to WiFi, then enable SSH. This allows me to login via ssh and execute: ceemmc -x from the terminal. This writes CoreELEC to the built-in eMMC storage, after which I am able to remove the microSD card and reboot the unit into CoreELEC via the built-in sto...

DC-DC Buck Stepdown Converter for ESP8266

I am working on a project that requires a step-down converter from 12V to 5V, that will then power a WeMOS D1 Mini. I saw this new mini buck converter based on the usual LM2596 MP2307 , so I thought I'd give it a try. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Although it is supposed to be able to supply up to 1.8A, the D1 Mini was not able to boot up. The 5V pin was being properly supplied, but the 3.3V pin measures at only ~1.3V. So I had to go back to my usual LM2596 module, which is much larger, but works to power the D1 Mini with a 12V source. Here's a great review of the mini buck converter I found while trying to figure out how to make it work. The fact that it has high quiescent current (~60mA) is also mentioned in a few other sources.