Skip to main content

ESPCLOCK4 - Design

The idea for ESPCLOCK4 came after encountering this article. It made me realize the successor to the ESP8266 - the ESP32 - has an ultra low power (ULP) coprocessor that can perform simple processing eg. toggle pins, read ADC etc. while the power hungry main CPU is in deep sleep. 

After reading through the specs, it seems the ULP can substitute for the ATtiny85 in the ESPCLOCK3 design. The advantage is that the I2C bus is not longer required, and the circuitry can be vastly simplified. 

Just like the watchdog timer on the ATtiny85, it appears the real-time clock (RTC) that drives the ULP is not very accurate (5% jitter). However, I think I can use the same calibration technique employed to adjust OCR1A on the ATtiny85 in the ESPCLOCK2 design to dynamically tune the RTC. Basically, by using the difference between the computed network time and actual network time, the RTC counter can be increased or decreased accordingly.

So here's the preliminary design. The ESP32 will again serve only as the conduit to the Internet to retrieve the network time. It will be in deep sleep otherwise to conserve power.

The ULP will perform 3 tasks:

  • It will advance the physical clock by generating the tick pulses.
  • It will check to see if battery voltage is low. If so, it will wake ESP32 up, which will write the physical clock time to EEPROM and shutdown.
  • It will monitor a reset button and perform a software reset when the button is pressed.
As before, a supercapacitor will be used to supply power to the circuit until the ESP32 has time to properly shutdown when power is removed.

I am interested to see what's the power profile of this approach compared to ESP8266 + ATtiny85.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Update: Line adapter for Ozito Blade Trimmer

Update (Dec 2021): If you access to a 3D printer, I would now recommend this solution , which makes it super easy to replace the trimmer line. I have been using it for a few months now with zero issue.

Line adapter for Ozito Blade Trimmer

This is an adapter for Ozito 18V battery trimmer (and possibly some Bosch trimmers as well) that uses a plastic blade for cutting. It lets you insert a 2.4mm trimmer line (about 8cm long) and use that for cutting. Simply cut a length of trimmer line and briefly heat up one end with a lighter so that a little bulb is formed. Then insert the trimmer line into the adapter and slot that into the trimmer as per normal. Make sure the trimmer line is not so long that it touches the safety guard. If that is the case, simply trim off any excess with a cutter or scissors. This part is best printed using PETG, which is a tougher and more flexible material. PLA is more rigid and breaks more easily. However, even with PETG, it will still break when it hits something really hard. Since this takes only 0.5m of material and 15 minutes to print, I will usually print a batch of nine at a time at very little cost. The blades that they sell do not break when it hits a hard object, but ...

Cooling mod for the X96 Air

I realized after my Ugoos box died that overheating is a big problem with cheap Android TV boxes. A teardown of the Ugoos box shows that it does not have any heatsink or fan at all!  The X96 Air does have a heatsink, but the heatsink is located at the bottom of the casing with no ventilation. In this default configuration, with the ambient room temperature at 25c and playing a 1080p video, I was seeing the CPU temperature at 67c. I drilled a couple of holes at the bottom of the casing. The CPU temperature fell to 59c with the box raised about 2cm with plastic blocks. I retrieved an old 5V laptop fan: Then cut and strip away a spare USB cable: Solder the red and black wires on the fan and the cable: Secure the fan to the bottom of the casing with double-sided tape, then plug the fan into the box's USB connector. Here's a view of the box with some 3D-printed risers installed at the bottom to give the mounted fan sufficient clearance: The CPU now runs at 43c, a huge drop from the ...