Skip to main content

Measuring current draw with LTC4150 + ESP-12E

My LTC4150 Coulomb counter has finally arrived!

For testing, I hooked up the unit to the spare ESP-12E I have lying around:


All the jumpers on the LTC4150 are soldered (SJ1 = interrupt-driven counting; SJ2, SJ3 = 3.3V circuit).

The code for driving the Coulomb counter is as follows:

 1
 2
 3
 4
 5
 6
 7
 8
 9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
#include <Time.h>
#include <TimeLib.h>

const int BATTERY_CAPS = 2300;
const byte INT_PIN = D1;
const float INT_TO_COULUMB = 0.614439;

bool trigger = false, init_done = false;
unsigned long total_time = 0, total_interrupts = 0;
volatile unsigned long num_interrupts = 0;
volatile unsigned long time1 = 0, time2 = 0;

void debug(const char *format, ...) {
  char buf[256];
  va_list ap;
  va_start(ap, format);
  vsnprintf(buf, sizeof(buf), format, ap);
  va_end(ap);
  Serial.println(buf);
}

void handleInterrupt() {
  if (time1 == 0) {
    time1 = millis();
    init_done = true;
  } else {
    num_interrupts++;
    time2 = millis();
    trigger = true;
  }
}

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);
  pinMode(INT_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);
  attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(INT_PIN), handleInterrupt, FALLING);
} 
 
void loop() {
  if (init_done) {
    Serial.println();
    init_done = false;
  }

  if (trigger) {
  cli();
    trigger = false;
    unsigned long interval = time2 - time1;
    unsigned long ni = num_interrupts;
    time1 = time2;
  num_interrupts = 0;
  sei();
  total_time += interval;
  total_interrupts += ni;
    float ma = (ni * INT_TO_COULUMB) / (interval / 1000.0) * 1000.0;
    float ma_avg = (total_interrupts * INT_TO_COULUMB) / (total_time / 1000.0) * 1000.0;
    float lifetime = BATTERY_CAPS / ma_avg / 24.0;
    debug("\ninterval = %ldms; num_interrupts = %ld; ma = %fmA; ma_avg = %fmA; lifetime = %f days",
      interval, num_interrupts, ma, ma_avg, lifetime);
    time1 = time2; 
  }
  else {
    Serial.print(time1 == 0 ? '#' : '.');
  }
  delay(10*1000);
}

When the load is a 1K resistor, expected current draw is ~4V/1K = ~4mA. The following output was observed:

interval = 150862ms; num_interrupts = 1; ma = 4.072855mA; ma_avg = 4.072855mA; lifetime = 26.598871 days
interval = 150775ms; num_interrupts = 2; ma = 4.075205mA; ma_avg = 4.074029mA; lifetime = 26.591200 days
interval = 150829ms; num_interrupts = 3; ma = 4.073746mA; ma_avg = 4.073935mA; lifetime = 26.591818 days
interval = 150710ms; num_interrupts = 4; ma = 4.076962mA; ma_avg = 4.074691mA; lifetime = 26.586882 days
interval = 150850ms; num_interrupts = 5; ma = 4.073179mA; ma_avg = 4.074389mA; lifetime = 26.588854 days

When the load is a 47K resistor, expected current draw is ~4V/47K = ~0.08mA:

interval = 8380827ms; num_interrupts = 1; ma = 0.073315mA; ma_avg = 0.073315mA; lifetime = 1477.645142 days
interval = 8124328ms; num_interrupts = 2; ma = 0.075630mA; ma_avg = 0.074454mA; lifetime = 1455.033325 days
interval = 7995918ms; num_interrupts = 3; ma = 0.076844mA; ma_avg = 0.075234mA; lifetime = 1439.949219 days

I aborted the test after 3 readings because the current draw is so low it was taking too long to get 5 readings. But I think the readings are consistent enough to conclude that the power meter circuit gives reasonably accurate readings.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Hacking an analog clock to sync with NTP - Part 5

This is how it looks after I have put everything together. The Arduino sketch is available here . The 2 jumper wires soldered to the clock mechanism are connected to pins D0 and D1 on the ESP-12 (in any order). When the device first boots up, it presents an access point which can be connected to via the PC or smartphone. Once connected, the captive portal redirects the web browser to the configuration page:     A custom field has been added to the WiFi configuration page to enter the current clock time in HHMMSS format. Try to set the clock time to as close to the current time as possible using the radial dial at the back of the clock so the clock will have less work to do catching up. In the config page, the HTML5 Geolocation API is also used to obtain your current location (so if your web browser asks if you would like to share your location, answer "yes"). This is then passed to the Google Time Zone API to obtain the time and DST offset of your time z...

Cooling mod for the X96 Air

I realized after my Ugoos box died that overheating is a big problem with cheap Android TV boxes. A teardown of the Ugoos box shows that it does not have any heatsink or fan at all!  The X96 Air does have a heatsink, but the heatsink is located at the bottom of the casing with no ventilation. In this default configuration, with the ambient room temperature at 25c and playing a 1080p video, I was seeing the CPU temperature at 67c. I drilled a couple of holes at the bottom of the casing. The CPU temperature fell to 59c with the box raised about 2cm with plastic blocks. I retrieved an old 5V laptop fan: Then cut and strip away a spare USB cable: Solder the red and black wires on the fan and the cable: Secure the fan to the bottom of the casing with double-sided tape, then plug the fan into the box's USB connector. Here's a view of the box with some 3D-printed risers installed at the bottom to give the mounted fan sufficient clearance: The CPU now runs at 43c, a huge drop from the ...

Cooling mod for the X96 Air #2

Previously, I added a USB cooling fan to the X96 Air TV box . The problem with this mod is that the fan is always running, and it runs at full speed. Ideally, the fan should kick in only when the CPU temperature is above a certain threshold. It would be even better if there is a way to control the fan speed. Dan McDonald left me a comment pointing to his project on Github . He basically connected the fan to a USB relay that can be controlled by Python script. His project inspired me to make a similar mod that would make use of the spare D1 Mini boards I have lying around. The plan is to hook up the fan to a MOSFET (2N7000) and control it via PWM. Here's the very simple circuit: The code simply reads a single character from the serial port (0 - 9). 0 will turn the fan off, while 1 - 9 will generate a proportional PWM to drive the fan, with 1 being the lowest and 9 being the highest. Here's the Arduino code: #include <Arduino.h> void setup () { Serial . begin ( 9600 ...