Skip to main content

Hacking an analog clock to sync with NTP - Part 4

Assuming the jumper wires from the clock are connected to pins D1 and D2 on the ESP-12, the following Arduino sketch will make it function as a normal clock that ticks every second:

 1
 2
 3
 4
 5
 6
 7
 8
 9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
tickPin = D1;
os_timer_t secTimer;

// Triggered by system timer every second
void timerCallback(void *pArg) {
  tickOccured = true;
}

void setup() {
  // Setup GPIO outputs
  pinMode(D1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(D2, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(D1, LOW);
  digitalWrite(D2, LOW);

  // Start system timer which triggers every second
  os_timer_setfn(&secTimer, timerCallback, NULL);
  os_timer_arm(&secTimer, 1000, true);
}

void loop() {
  if (tickOccured) {
    tickOccurred - false;
    tickPin = (tickPin == D1 ? D2: D1);
    digitalWrite(tickPin, HIGH);
    delay(100);
    digitalWrite(tickPin, LOW);
    delay(100);
  }  
  delay(250);
}

To be continued...

Labels:

Comments

  1. Stephen18 November 2016 at 17:54

    You refer to D1 & D2 on your board, however I'm having trouble translating that to a normal ESP-12. Could you tell me which pins you have defaulted to using this diagram?

    http://simba-os.readthedocs.io/en/latest/_images/esp12e-pinout.png

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Random Sequence21 November 2016 at 19:15

      From this link:

      http://www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1388

      I believe D1 = IO14, D2 = IO12

      Delete
  2. Rob De Almeida27 November 2016 at 13:05

    Thanks for sharing! I'm using this for an art project at the FB HQ.

    A few comments:

    Line 23 should be: tickOccurred = false;

    And in some places of the code there's a typo — you use "tickOccured" instead of "tickOccurred".

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Random Sequence29 November 2016 at 01:47

      Thanks for pointing out the spelling error. I have corrected it in the Github repo.

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Cooling mod for the X96 Air #2

Previously, I added a USB cooling fan to the X96 Air TV box . The problem with this mod is that the fan is always running, and it runs at full speed. Ideally, the fan should kick in only when the CPU temperature is above a certain threshold. It would be even better if there is a way to control the fan speed. Dan McDonald left me a comment pointing to his project on Github . He basically connected the fan to a USB relay that can be controlled by Python script. His project inspired me to make a similar mod that would make use of the spare D1 Mini boards I have lying around. The plan is to hook up the fan to a MOSFET (2N7000) and control it via PWM. Here's the very simple circuit: The code simply reads a single character from the serial port (0 - 9). 0 will turn the fan off, while 1 - 9 will generate a proportional PWM to drive the fan, with 1 being the lowest and 9 being the highest. Here's the Arduino code: #include <Arduino.h> void setup () { Serial . begin ( 9600 ...
1 comment
Read more

Installing and customizing CoreELEC in X96 Air

I previously installed CoreELEC on another TV Box ( Ugoos X3 Pro ), which unfortunately died after only 9 months during the summer (due to the unit overheating, which I learned is a common problem for cheap Android TV boxes). So this time I purchased a X96 Air  (4GB/32Gb) and had to do the whole thing again. So this is a note-to-self in case I ever have to install CoreELEC again on some other device. Installation of CoreELEC is simple enough by following this guide . Basically, it involves downloading and writing the firmware to a microSD card using usbimager . Then insert the microSD card, reset the unit and hold the reset until the logo appears. The unit will then proceed to boot into CoreELEC. First thing is to connect to WiFi, then enable SSH. This allows me to login via ssh and execute: ceemmc -x from the terminal. This writes CoreELEC to the built-in eMMC storage, after which I am able to remove the microSD card and reboot the unit into CoreELEC via the built-in sto...
Post a Comment
Read more

Cooling mod for the X96 Air

I realized after my Ugoos box died that overheating is a big problem with cheap Android TV boxes. A teardown of the Ugoos box shows that it does not have any heatsink or fan at all!  The X96 Air does have a heatsink, but the heatsink is located at the bottom of the casing with no ventilation. In this default configuration, with the ambient room temperature at 25c and playing a 1080p video, I was seeing the CPU temperature at 67c. I drilled a couple of holes at the bottom of the casing. The CPU temperature fell to 59c with the box raised about 2cm with plastic blocks. I retrieved an old 5V laptop fan: Then cut and strip away a spare USB cable: Solder the red and black wires on the fan and the cable: Secure the fan to the bottom of the casing with double-sided tape, then plug the fan into the box's USB connector. Here's a view of the box with some 3D-printed risers installed at the bottom to give the mounted fan sufficient clearance: The CPU now runs at 43c, a huge drop from the ...
2 comments
Read more